Make-up Edit – Eyes and Lips

Hey my loves, here is the second installment looking at my basic make-up kit. You can read the Base Edit here.

Brows

Brows frame the face. If you take good care of them and don’t over pluck them they can make all the difference to your look. I get my eyebrows threaded and I pluck, but I am careful not to take too much away.

As I am getting older, my eyebrows are becoming even more fair. Some are even grey! So I always dye my eyebrows, using the Eyelure dye kit. But if you are not happy to do this, you can find a good brow technician who will dye them, thread and pluck into the perfect shape for you.

I always pencil in some of the brow. I have sparse areas so they need to be filled. My current favourite is Mac Lingering Brow pencil. I have also used Rimmel Hazel eyebrow pencil for many years. I finish with a brow setting gel as my eyebrows are quite course and unruly. You may not need this step. I use Benefit Gimme Brow.

Important to note – Don’t over do the brow. There is nothing worse than two thick eyebrows with colour that is not natural. Always opt for the lighter colour and apply in light brush-like strokes.

For an ever softer finish I would recommend a powder product. Something like Mac Omega eyeshadow with an angled brush will fill and define the brow in a soft way.

Mascara

This is my nemisis!!! I have, over the years, tried every mascara out there. I was not blessed with long eyelashes, but they are curly. I have always wanted a mascara to lengthen, volumise and define. I always opt for a drier formula. Anything too wet will just weigh my lashes down. For years I used Max Factor Masterpiece and Clinique High Impact Extreme Lash. I have also loved L’Oreal Telescopic Mascara. My current fave is Mac Extended play Gigalash it is the perfect combination of small wand, dryish formula, long wearing and no smudging on my oily lids. I usually wear black, but have been known to wear brown. Brown is much more natural and is really flattering.

I apply mascara right at the root of the lash and wiggle the brush up, so that it coats each lash. I usually apply at least 2 coats, but if it is a night out then it’s likely to be 3 or 4. Don’t let the mascara dry completely between coats as it will be hard to add more without clumping. Just do one eye at a time and come back to the other eye for your second coat.

I find waterproof mascaras are best for me. They don’t run and they don’t flake. They take more time to take off, but they hold a curl unlike regular mascara.

Eyeliner

Eyeliner is an easy way to transform a look. First we will talk about Kohl eyeliners. They can do many things. You can line the upper lash line for a flick. You can use it in the upper water line to tightline and give the lashes the look of thickness at the base. You can line the bottom water line and you can line the bottom lashes. One of my favourite things to do, particularly if I’m doing minimal make up is to line the top lash line then smudge it out to give a really quick smokey look.

During the day I would opt for any shade of brown or bronze. This compliments my eye colour. For an evening look it would be black.

My favourites are Rimmel Scandal eyes Waterproof Liners. There is a huge range of colours and they do really last. If you want to spend a bit more then the Charlotte Tilbury Rock n Kohl is outstanding. You can smudge it out, but once it sets that’s it! It’s there for the night. I use Bedroom Black, Barbarella Brown and Marlene Midnight which is a fab navy colour, again great for light eyes.

Another tip, if you have tired or red eyes, then use a nude shade of kohl. Almost flesh coloured. Rimmel have one as do all the high end ranges. Line the lower water line with this and your eyes will instantly be bigger and brighter.

For gel and liquid liner, I am no expert. I have tried so many times over the years to perfect it, but I usually end up feeling that it doesn’t suit me. When I do opt for a gel line, I use Clinique Brush-On Cream Liner in Black Honey. Its not black and its not brown and shows off my bluey/green eyes beautifully. Bobbi Brown gel liners are renowned in the beauty world and most lines carry something similar. The Soap and Glory Supercat liner is supposed to be very good. I will do some more research and get back to you.

Eyeshadow

I love eyeshadow! I have quite a collection. I tend to stick with the same colour range. Always browns, copper, red. This suits my colouring. But I do like a black shadow too.

The rule of thumb is to start with a primer. This will keep the eyeshadow in place for longer, particularly if you get creasing or you have oily eyelids. I use Mac Painterly Paint Pot, its flesh coloured and gives a great base.

Then go in with your light colour all over the moving lid. If you have younger eyes, this could have a slight shimmer to it. I love the Elf C Eyeshadow Brush for packing on colour. Then take a slightly darker, mid tone colour to accentuate the crease of the eye. I always use Mac Texture. It’s a fantastic blending transition colour. I always use the Mac 217 Blending Brush for this. Literally, this brush is a must-have. Even if you are not great at blending, this brush will make everything easy. Then for more definition go in with a darker colour in the outer V of the eye. Use a Mac 219 Pencil Brush for this or a brush with a smaller head. Blend everything together well with a blending brush like the Mac 217.

I also always take the eyeshadow under the lower lashes too. It brings the look of the whole eye together. I use my Elf C Brush for this, but any smaller head brush will be fine.

The trick is to experiment and get used to using shadows. My favourite has always been Mac Antiqued. It’s a coppery brown shade with a hint of shimmer. It’s great on blue and green eyes. For a basic eye I like Mac All That Glitters which is a champagne colour.

I generally opt for shadows with a coppery/peachy base. I have made my own Mac quad with Mythology, Honey Lust, Expensive Pink and Star Violet. All beautiful and in the same tones.

There are plenty of drug store shadows. I have a great quad palette from Rimmel in Brixton Brown that has all the right coppery shades, and a L’Oreal Pro trio that has more greens and blacks. But in my experience over the years, nothing beats Mac. So if you can, go to the counter and ask for advice on the right colours for you and a quick demonstration of how to use.

For older eyes, they recommend staying away from glittery shadows as they can show lines and wrinkles. But there is a difference between shimmer and full-on glitter. If you keep your base colours matte then adding a little shimmer at the end is fine. It looks good in the tear duct area to make your eyes pop, also some on the centre of the moving eyelid can help to bring out the whole eye.

My current favourite for everything is the Charlotte Tilbury Dolce Vita palette. It’s just beautiful. Coppery, bronze and shimmer. With all of Charlotte’s palettes they come with instructions on the back. There is a base colour, an enhance colour, a smoke colour and a pop colour. Using this method you get the most beautiful bronze smokey eye with a pop of shimmer in the centre of the lid to finish the look. The eyeshadows are highly pigmented, soft and blendable. When I wear it I always get compliments. Dolce Vita is great for light eyes but Charlotte has 10 looks to choose from and there is something for everyone. I also have the Vintage Vamp quad which is more pink/purple tones but still with coppery warmth and make a great alternative. Perfect for light eyes.

Eyeshadow sticks

If powder shadows are a bit scary for you then I highly recommend shadow sticks. All the ranges do them. Rimmel have the larger ScandalEyes Shadow Stick, as do Boots No 7 and Barry M. All can be swept across the lid, blended with the finger and with a touch of liner to the lashes and some mascara you are good to go! Charlotte Tilbury also does a fantastic range called the Colour Chameleon sticks. I have Champagne Diamonds and Bronzed Garnet. Both perfect for light eyes and again in coppery gold colours. The most coveted in the industry are the By Terry Ombre Blackstars. I am yet to purchase, but I doubt it will be long 😉

Lipstick and Lipliner

Oh, the joys of lipstick!!! Definitely my favourite Make-up item to buy. It’s like buying sweets! There is something so exciting about trying out a new colour or formula. There are literally thousands to choose from these days. Whilst I edge on the side of a neutral lip most days, I do wear a bold lip occasionally

A good lipliner is a staple. You don’t have to have one in every colour to match each lipstick perfectly. But having a basic nude lip liner and a red tone lip liner in your collection will mean you are set for any look. I love the No.7 nude lip liner for all looks and the Charlotte Tilbury Lipcheat Lip Liner in Pillow Talk is a must have for everyone. This lip liner actually increases the size of your lips without any harsh, drawn on lines. If applied all over the lip with just a gloss, then you have a great nude look. Alternatively add any colour over the top and I guarantee it will stay put.

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My favourite every day lipsticks are Mac Brave and Mac Patisserie. These are pinky nudes that sit comfortably and suit most skin tones. For a more brown nude I opt for Mac Bare Again a soft comfortable sheen lipstick, or Charlotte Tilbury Very Victoria, inspired by Victoria Beckham, this is a matte finish.

If I’m going for a bold statement lip then Mac Morange is a fab bright orange or Mac Lady Danger for a red with a hint of orange. I stick to Mac lipsticks as a general rule, because I know them. But the high street has plenty to choose from too. Rimmel always win for me. Their Kate Moss Lasting Finish lipsticks are amazing. But Boujois and L’Oreal do amazing lipsticks too. It’s about finding a colour that suits you.

When picking a lip colour you will know if the colour suits you as your face will immediately light up. If it doesn’t suit you, then all you will see is the lip! You don’t want this, you want something to compliment your skin tone and eyes and to bring out all your features. Again, if you are new to this, then go to a Mac counter and try a few colours. They will be happy to help and advise on what’s best for you.

I suit oranges, plums and bubblegum pinks. You may be more cool toned so a brown or blue-red may suit you. One tip, if you are going out to eat, then I would opt for a lighter colour. You don’t want to have to worry about your red lipstick smudging as you eat. Any other time then a bold lip is fine. If you go for Red on a night out, then I would opt for a matte formula that stays put. One of my favourites for this is Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Red Square.

Lipgloss, Laquer and Balms

I also love a smooth gloss. Gloss has been around since the 70’s. It has a way of making the lips look luscious and the pout so much bigger. As you get older your lips shrink a bit. So my advice for the older ladies is to add a touch of gloss to your favourite lipstick to make those lips kissable.

I am really enjoying my latest purchase which is the Clarins Instant lip Perfector. Its not sticky or too glossy and helps to moisturise the lips with a hint of colour. In my experience some of the best glosses have been high street brands. So anything from Collection, Nyx or Boujouis will be fine. For coloured gloss my current favourite is Mac ‘Fashion Perk’ Mineralize Glass. This gives the fullness of a gloss with enough pigment to add colour.

If you like a balmy finish with a hint of colour then all the drug store make-up ranges now have the chubby pencils. I love the Revlon ColourBurst and Rimmel Colour Rush. They are light enough to feel like you are only wearing a lip balm, but they have a hint of colour. Some are far more pigmented than others but they are all really comfortable and natural to wear.

The latest addition is the lip laquers. These are liquids lip colours that dry down to a lipstick and stays put all day. My favourites are the Rimmel Apocolips and Boujoius Rouge Velvets. You can opt for strong or nude colours and the lasting power is incredible. My most recent additions are the Too Faced Melted Liquified Lipsticks. Incredible colours and staying power.

Some days all I wear is a balm. I will use the Balmi Lip Balm in Strawberry or if you want to go for the Rolls Royce then By Terry Balm de Rose. Both are great for moisturising the lip.

I could talk all day. But I hope this gives you some basics. I will go into my Top 5’s of each product type over coming posts, so please watch out for that.

If you have questions then please leave in the comments and please do share your favourites.

Kiki xo